Well, it has stopped snowing – for now. We’re supposed to get a brief snowfall again later this evening.
I am so glad we got our first stock up shopping trip done yesterday. I got a call from home care saying there wasn’t anyone to do my mother’s med assist in the evening, due to unsafe road conditions. !!! The problem is, if the road conditions are too unsafe for the home care worker to drive to my mother’s town, it would be equally unsafe for me or my siblings to do it. After explaining the situation to the shift supervisor that called me, she said she would look into things can call me back. Thankfully, they were able to find a home care worker that didn’t have to drive into my mother’s town, and could juggle schedules so she could do my mother’s two evening med assists.
While waiting for her to call me back, I checked the road conditions, just to be sure. Our provincial government website for road conditions is notorious for not being up to date, so when I saw it listing our highway was “partially snow packed”, I checked a local highways group on FB. Some people had made the drive on the highway I’d be taking and things were certainly not very safe. Our gravel roads, of course, have not been plowed yet, but I did see cars driving past our place. The danger isn’t so much the snow, but that it’s snow on top of ice from our recent warm weather melting things all over.
So I was very, very happy and thankful when I got the call back saying they’d found a way to get my mother’s med assist done!
What better way to spend my time when it’s too snowy to do anything outside, besides shovel?
Work on garden stuff, of course.
With the basement being as cold as it is, I headed down to get the heater going and seeing what I could do to prepare for potting up the pre-germinated seeds. Premoistening the seed starter mix works great, but it has resulted in the mix being far colder than if it were dry. I set things up so that the heater was blowing right over my giant metal mixing bowl to help warm it up, along with the rest of the room. Then I checked on the seeds.
They are looking great! We have a near 100% germination rate!
In the first photo, we have the Sunshine squash. It’s hard to see on a couple of them, but yes, all four of them have radicals emerging. The other, with six seeds, are the Mashed Potato squash. It’s hard to see with some of them, but they have all germinated.
In the second photo, you can see that all three Arikara squash have germinated. The five seeds are the Baked Potato squash, also all germinated.
Next are the luffa, and so far, two of four have germinated. I would not be surprised if the last two also germinated by tomorrow.
In the last photo, I have a large-celled tray prepared and set up in front of the heater to pot all but the luffa into. That will leave three empty cells.
I might have to invest in another heat mat, though. That little heater can only do so much in such a big room! We don’t have any bigger heaters. The basements are not heated. The old basement is where the furnace is and it actually does get warmer. I considered setting up in there, but it doesn’t have enough outlets available to plug in a heat mat or grow lights.
For now, in the tray I’m using to hold the seed starts now, I made sure to add warm water to the base for the eggplants and peppers in peat cells. With the heat mat, the peat was drying out, which would draw moisture out of the seed starter mix, so I have to made sure those stay damp. The heat mat would also keep the water in the tray warm, which helps. The luffa will be potted up into individual peat pots, since they will be transplanted into large pots in the little portable greenhouse we got, while the winter squash will go into various garden beds. The luffa pots can go back to the tray the eggplant and peppers are in and will stay warm, but the second tray with the winter squash is going to need to be warmed up as well.
I should be able to get a second heat mat in town, but there’s no going anywhere today. Possibly tomorrow, if road conditions are improved. Otherwise, Sunday would be the earliest.
The seeds should be okay in their damp paper towels for now. Even if the first leaves start to emerge, they can be potted up. I just don’t want them to pot them up, only to get killed off by cold!
Well, we’ll see how it works out over the next couple of days.
Okay, I did say, months ago, that we did not need to order seeds this year.
I also said that I knew I probably would order more, anyhow! 😄
I’ve placed two orders so far. One was with MI Gardener, and I just got the email notification that they have been shipped. I explain what I chose, and why, in this post. Most are “back up” seeds, in case our winter sowing experiment fails.
I also placed an order with Veseys, but this was more for the food forest. The seeds ordered were so that I could take advantage of a promo code to get free shipping. I explain what I ordered there, and why, in this post.
So, why am I ordering even more seeds?
I mean, besides the fact that I just want to… 😄
Well, this order is with Heritage Harvest Seeds. It’s actually been a couple of years since I’ve ordered from them. They are a small heirloom seed company that is even further north than we are, so as far as climate and growing season goes, I know anything I order from there should grow here.
Another reason is, more back up seeds!
This is what I ordered today. (all links should open in new tabs)
At the top of the list is Cream of Saskatchewan Watermelon. We tried growing these last year, and one one tiny little watermelon out of the only surviving transplant. I want to try them again, but this time give them more dedicated space, rather than having it share a bed with a whole bunch of melons. I do still have seeds left, but they are a couple of years old, so I want to have some fresh seed.
Next is the Arikara squash. This is a variety of winter squash I have been eye balling for years. I chose is specifically due to its rarity, with the goal of saving seeds. From the website description:
Originally grown by the Arikara Indians of North Dakota, This squash is oblong with pinkish orange skin and a green star on the blossom end. The Arikara Indians picked the blossoms and dried them for winter use. A very good storage squash that can be used for soup. (90 days to maturity) Extremely rare.
I may not grow these this year, as I have other winter squash we want to grow, and if I’m looking to save seeds, I don’t want to risk cross pollination. We shall see how things work out.
I also ordered more White Scallop Squash. We had issues growing them in containers last year – they simply did not germinate – but did finally get some in one of the garden beds. By then, it was so late in the season, I’m amazed we had any to harvest at all. The last of the seed went into the winter sown bed with all summer squash. These are back up seeds, in case none survived the winter.
In my MI Gardener order, I did order sugar snap peas. This time, however, I ordered Super sugar snap peas! 😄 From the website:
One of the sweetest and crunchiest snap peas available! The 3 inch pods are delicious eaten raw or cooked and are very productive. A favorite of all who try them! Tall vines to 6’ in height.
If we have the space, I’d like to try both varieties of sugar snap peas we’ll have this year. If we end up with space for only one variety, I’d like to try this one, first.
Last of all, I ordered two packets of Yukon Chief corn. Last year, we had two short season varieties to choose from. Yukon Chief and Orchard Baby. We did Yukon Chief first, due to it’s super short growing season. This year, we will be trying the Orchard Baby. Hopefully, if we can keep the racoons from eating them first, we’ll be able to save seed. We did really like the Yukon Chief, though, so I ordered two packets this time, for next year, and plan to save seed again.
One of the changes at Heritage Harvest is that they now have a $20 minimum order. We’ve never had problems with having our seeds shipped with regular mail, but apparently, others have. Solving the problem meant to have expedited mail with a tracking number, but the extra cost of that only makes sense with orders of at least $20. That brought our final cost to Cdn$36.50
Except it didn’t cost us anything. At least, not anything out of budget.
One of the payment methods is PayPal. This year, we actually got payment for ads on this blog (it took 3 years!), which was sent by PayPal in US dollars. It went into my personal PayPal account, and I left it there, so I used that to pay for this order. Which got converted to US$26.45 at the current exchange rate.
Which worked out quite well, I think.
So that’s what I got today; a combination of things to plant this year, and next year, and back up seeds, if the winter sowing didn’t work.
I have to admit, I had to mightily resist ordering more. They have the Tropeana Lunga onions that grew so well for us when we tried them a few years ago. I was also tempted by the Amish Bottle Onion, simply because of its rarity (and the shape, which I find easier to cut when cooking). I even seriously considered the Yellow of Parma onion, for its excellent storage and up to 1 pound size. We have so many of our own onions seeds, though – as well as seed producing onions – that we may never need to buy onion seeds again. I also want to try the Red Mangel, though that would for a time when we have animals, to grow as feed. There are just so many things I want to try!
This will do for now, though. We have more than enough seeds for this year, and years to come!
We just need to keep expanding the garden beds for now, and grow what we can in the beds we have available now.
Okay, after going through their website more, I made some decisions and placed an order at Vesey’s. It was mostly for our future food forest, but I did order a couple of seed packets so I could take advantage of a promo code for free shipping.
As I was preparing to write this post, however, I got a phone call.
From home care.
Guess who has to go to my mother’s again this evening, to do her med assist?
Two nights in a row. Apparently, someone just called in sick.
My mom is going to be furious.
*sigh*
I will just have to deal with that, later.
Meanwhile, here is what I ordered today. (Links will open in new tabs)
These were the one thing we absolutely wanted to get this year. The Opal Plum tree. The description from the website:
Prunus spp. Opal stands alone as the hardiest European type Plum available on the market. It is vigorous, productive and self-fertile. Even in short summer seasons, the fruit will reliably ripen. The plums are round, red-purple with a golden flesh and have a complex and sweet flavour, fresh or dried. Hardy to zone 3. We ship 18″ trees
The key points were that it is self fertile, so we don’t have to plant it next to our dying wild-type plums, but can plant it in the section we’ve designated for a food forest. It’s hardy to our zone, so we don’t have to do like we did with our zone 4 Liberty apple, and tuck it into a sheltered area. (Hopefully, it survived the polar vortexes we got this winter!)
I decided to also order some more haskaps. We already have three, but they have not been doing well at all. While I should probably transplant them, I’ve decided to get a couple more that will be planted in the food forest area, this time.
The second is Boreal Blizzard, an early producing and largest fruit variety.
We currently have “Mr” and “Mrs” haskap varieties, where are sold as cross-pollinating varieties. The “Mr” is an Aurora, and seems to bloom too early to pollinate the “Mrs.” variety, so I am hoping that the early Boreal Blizzard variety will work out better.
If these haskap do well, that will confirm that the ones we have now are not producing because they are in a bad location. Which I am 99% sure of, but it really is a good location – for us!
To use the free shipping promo code, I needed to have at least one packet of seeds.
I had been looking at these last night, while planning my order, but they were listed as sold out. This morning, they were back in stock! So I snagged them.
This is the Sweetie Snack Mix of small sized peppers. They have a short growing season, too, so they should work out. I think my family might like them better than the larger bell peppers we’ve been trying so far.
Last of all, I got some flowers for the girls. 😄 The Jet Black Hollyhock. These are pollinator attracting biannuals and should be self seeding, so we will plan out where to sow them with that in mind!
There we have it. Another order in for our 2025 garden, and our food forest.
The grand total for this, after tax, came to $137.08, however we will only be billed for the seeds when they get shipped in the next day or two. The sapling and haskap plugs will be shipped closer to our last frost date of June 2, and we will be billed for those, then.
The flower seeds were not that expensive, but that packet of mini peppers cost $8.75, with only about 20 seeds in the pack. That’s almost 44¢ per seed!
Still cheaper than buying them at the grocery store, but what a huge leap in prices for vegetable seeds! During the illegal lockdowns, with people panic buying and prices going up and up and up, so many people decided to try growing their own food, a lot of seed suppliers were completely sold out. They are still recovering from that. I know some smaller Canadian seed growers had to back out of the consumer market completely and only sell commercially in bulk. Add to this, in the years since, more people are trying to grow their own food because the grocery prices have gotten so high. That increased demand puts a major stress on supplies, too. Which is why I’m seeing the cost of vegetable seeds skyrocketing, while the number of seeds in the packets are going down, but not with flower seeds. I haven’t been looking at herb seeds lately, so I don’t know how they are doing for pricing.
With this order in, the next thing we’ll need to decide on is what variety of potatoes we want to grow and where. Anything beyond that is just gravy.
Okay, I wasn’t really planning to buy more seeds this year. Not exactly.
With our winter sown beds, which are detailed in the video below, we actually have a lot already planted for this year’s garden…
… that’s IF they survived the winter.
If they didn’t, then we’re not going to have a whole heckuva lot at all, because I finished off seed packets in doing this method.
There are a few things that I am thinking to start indoors – especially now that we have the portable greenhouse – but other things I will likely buy as transplants in the spring. Decisions will be made in the spring for that.
In the end, though, I broke down and made an order with MI Gardener. I’ve been looking at Canadian seed sources but, in the end, it came down to price. I’ve been really shocked by how expensive some seeds have gotten, even with very low seed counts in the packages, at a number of the sites I’ve bought from in the past. Plus, some of the things that interested me were either sold out or no longer available.
I didn’t even make a large order. Just a few things, some of which I probably won’t even plant this year.
The first item in the list is red noodle beans. We tried growing these a few years back and ended up having a drought and heat waves that year. They grew, but I only found a single pod when I was cleaning up for the end of the season, and it was the saddest, skinniest little thing! Along with the bush beans I have winter sown, I want a pole bean and a shelling bean. We have plenty of bean seeds, but no red noodle beans, and I’d really like to try those out.
Next is Winter Giant Spinach. I winter sowed all our spinach seeds so, if they don’t take, this will be our fallback planting.
Next is Turkish Orange Eggplant. We grew Classic and Little Finger eggplant last year. This year, I want to try a different variety. I’m not sure we’ll grow them this year – we’ll see if the order comes in early enough to start them indoors – but it will be an option. If nothing else, we can try the portable greenhouse to extend the season.
I got a package of sugar beet, but don’t expect to plant them this year. I want to actually try and make sugar with them, so this is going to be one of those “fun” things I like to include in my garden every year.
We have more than one variety of carrots winter sown. We still have more Uzbek Golden carrot seeds, if the winter sown ones don’t take, but it would be nice to have another variety as a back up seed.
We did the Summer of Melons mix last year. This year, we still want to grow at least one variety of melon. My younger daughter prefers honeydew types over cantaloupe types, and this Green Flesh Honeydew variety seems to have a short enough growing season to make it worth trying. We have other melon and watermelon seeds already on hand we can try this year, but we will definitely be scaling back from the number we grew last year!
Next are some basic sugar snap peas. I have shelling peas already, and want to have both types.
Last of all…
Yup.
I’m going to keep trying!
I ordered some luffa seeds.
If they come in early enough, I might try them this year. I’m not completely decided on where we will set up the portable greenhouse but, once we do, I will try growing the luffa there in pots, rather than transplanting them into a garden bed.
That’s it, that’s all. A whole 8 items.
All of these together came to a grand total of US$23.50, including shipping. Granted, with our Canadian dollar tanking so much right now, it will probably be closer to Cdn$50, but that would still be less than if I’d try to order these, or similar varieties, anywhere else.
[update: the order was processed, and it came out to Cdn$34.82]
The other things we will need to order or buy for this year’s garden will be things like potatoes and fruit trees. They wouldn’t be shipped until closer to our local last frost date of June 2, so we have time. We just have to settle on what we will be getting this year, first.
I have never ordered from MI Gardener before, but have heard nothing but excellent things about them, so I look forward to getting and trying out these seeds this year!
It’s cold AF out there, which means I’m thinking of the garden!
We are doing things very different this year, though.
The first major change is that I winter sowed a number of garden beds in the fall. You can see what and where, in this last garden tour video of 2024.
In previous years, I would have already at least started onions and shallots by now, and possibly some peppers. With the winter sowing, however, I have – hopefully – a head start on all these. I combined old and new seeds in various combinations into shakers before scattering them onto prepared beds and deep mulching them.
This is what I’ve got already sown.
Garlic – saved cloves
Seed combo 1: root vegetables Carrots: Uzbek Golden and Napoli Beets: Bresko, Merlin, Cylindra and Albino Turnip: Purple Prince Radishes: French Breakfast, Champion, Cherry Belle and Zlata Onions: saved seed (mix of red and yellow bulb unions) Note: left over seeds from this mix were planted in a final bed with saved Jebousek lettuce seeds added in
Seed combo 2: Summer squash mix Sunburst pattypan White Scallop pattypan Magda Green zucchini: Endeavor Yellow zucchini: Goldy
Seed combo 3: Kitchen Garden mix Swiss Chard: Bright Lights and Fordhook Giant Spinach: Space, Lakeside, Bloomsdale and Hybrid Olympia Kohlrabi: Early White Vienna and Early Purple Vienna Bok Choi: Hinou Tiny (saved seed) Shallots: saved seed Onions: saved seed
Seed Combo 4: tall and climbing (mostly) Sunflowers: Mongolian Giant and Hopi Black Dye Peas: Dalvay shelling peas (not saved seed) and King Tut purple peas (saved seed) Bush beans: Royal Burgundy Corn: Montana Morado (saved seed) Onions: saved seed
Flower Combo 1 Nasturtium: Dwarf Jewel Mix Butterfly flower: Orange Shades (milkweed) Forget Me Not
Flower Combo 2 Western Wildflower Mix
Perennials: Strawberries: Albion Everbearing and an unknown variety of small strawberries, plus whatever survives in the asparagus bed Purple Asparagus Sunchokes Onions for seed
So that is quite a lot of stuff that’s already been sown!
In theory, because they were heavily mulched, plus have an added layer of snow to insulated them, these seeds should start germinated as soon as the soil warms up enough.
In theory.
There are two things that I expect will reduce the germination rates.
First, I used this as an opportunity to use up some older seeds. Most of the summer squash, for example, is seed that’s 3 or 4 years old. The white scallop squash were new for last summer, so those should have a higher germination rate. Considering how many seeds were scattered in one bed, having a lower germination rate is not a bad thing. It would have me from having to thin them.
Second, these polar vortexes we’ve been hit with. While all the beds were mulched, the temperatures got so cold, it’s entirely possible a lot of these seeds have been killed off. I still expect some to come up – the onion and shallots, beans and peas are, I think, most likely to survive the cold. At this point, however, I will be amazed if we get anything. In fact, I’ll even be surprised if our Liberty apple tree survived, for all that we made sure it was planted in a well sheltered microclimate.
In the spring, once the snow starts melting away, I will need to remove the mulch so that the soil can warm up faster. With some beds, like the one in the old kitchen garden, I am hoping to be able to put one of the covers over them with plastic to warm them up faster. With the summer squash bed in particular, I’m hoping to arrange enough hoops or something so that it can be covered for its entire 18′ length. That bed will also need extra protection from slugs.
Aside from these winter sown beds, this is the space we still have available.
In the main garden area.
There is the low raised bed that will eventually be paired with another bed, yet to be built, to form a trellis tunnel. Right now, one half of that bed was cleaned up and replanted with onions that we gathered seed from, last year. I was able to do all red onions along one half, and all yellow onions along the other. The other side of the bed is where we had melons last year, and that half is still open for planting.
That leaves three other 18′ beds that are available. One has the logs to frame it, and those will be permanently joined once things thaw out in the spring. The other two have no log frames, yet. We have some dead spruces that are either cut down or have fallen down that we can use for that, but that will be worked on throughout the summer, or until whatever we plant in the beds are too big to work around.
There is also the bed with the Albion Everbearing strawberries in it. Those should survive the winter. Given the trouble we had with deer eating them, what I will probably do, once the ground is thawed out enough, is transplant them into the old kitchen garden – more on that later. Once that’s done, the bed will be available for something else.
As we are able, we intend to add many more beds to this area, focusing first on the trellis beds to the East, then reclaiming what has been a squash bed for the past few years to the West. This will require harvesting more dead spruces for materials, so it may be slow going. Last year, we got very little progress done, largely because of the weather!
In the Old Kitchen Garden
There is just one rectangular bed in the old kitchen garden that is winter sown. That leaves the tiny raised bed, the retaining wall blocks and the long, narrow bed against it, and the L shaped wattle weave bed.
For the long bed at the retaining wall, I will be doing some changes. Along the inside of the bed, it is bordered with a couple of logs to make it a lower raised bed. The top log is too crooked, so we can’t raise the soil level any higher, as it ends up falling through the gaps. I’ve decided I will remove that crooked long, but keep the straight bottom log, and then harvest willow branched and coppiced maple to wattle weave on top of it. This bed also has some short logs on the ends of the retaining wall blocks. The vertical sticks we used to hold those in place have started to break up, so I will probably replace those with a wattle woven wall, as well. Once this is done, we can add more soil to make it a slightly higher raised bed and not have soil falling into the path anymore.
The short side of the L shaped bed is where I am thinking of transplanting the Albion Everbearing strawberries. Considering how well the strawberries we grew from seed are doing there, I think that will work out.
As for the strawberries that we grew from seed, in the long side of the L shaped bed, while they are doing very well and are very prolific, they aren’t that good of a strawberry. Those will be transplanted out, but I haven’t decided where, yet. It will be somewhere that they can be left to grow wild and spread naturally.
That bed also had thyme we transplanted in, and chamomile that self seeded, in it. It’s unlikely the thyme survived the winter, but it’s possible the chamomile self seeded again. We shall see in the spring.
The tiny raised bed needs no work on it. Just the cover needs some maintenance from the cats using it as a hammock.
Then there are the retaining wall blocks. A lot of them have mint in them that we expect will come back. The ones with chives in them will come back, for sure. As for the remaining empty ones, they don’t get a lot of light and the growing space gets overtaken by an invasive flower that comes in from below, very quickly, so we will need to give a lot of consideration over what can be planted in there.
Chain link fence
We have a similar issue with the chimney block planters at the chain link fence, except it’s elm tree roots, not flowers, that have invaded those blocks! These need to be treated as a container garden, when it comes to what gets planted in them. Nothing really seems to do well there. Partly because of the invading roots, but also the blocks themselves would also be making the relatively small amount of soil they hold more alkaline. We will need to make sure to continue to amend the soil with sulfur granules or other acidifiers, more than other areas (our soil is already quite alkaline).
The other chain link fence bed is winter sown, but in the fall, I’m hoping we can finally redo the bed with permanent walls. Right now, we have scrap boards against the chain link fence to hold the soil in, and bricks around the other side and the end that are simply resting on the soil. I want to make this bed higher – to make it easier on my back, if nothing else! I need to come up with something better to go along the chain link fence; the old boards I found were already starting to rot, so they won’t last much longer. For the rest of it, I wouldn’t mind doing more wattle weaving, but that needs a LOT of long, straight, narrow, flexible branches, and we just don’t have that. What we do have will probably be used up this spring when I add wattle weaving to the narrow bed in the old kitchen garden.
The next area at the chain link fence is the asparagus bed and the sunchokes. The sunchokes should be fine, and need almost no maintenance. The purple asparagus is likely a lost cause. We should have been harvesting asparagus for the past two years and, while some are coming up, spring flooding has really set them back. The strawberries interplanted with them try to do well, only to get eaten by deer, in spite of protective measures. There is nothing we can do about the spring flooding, even though it doesn’t flood there every years. We could try making a higher raised bed but I really don’t think it’s worth the effort to dig up the asparagus, build a higher bed, and replant them, in this location. Especially with elm trees so close, as their roots are so invasive. I still want to grow asparagus. We’ll just have to find a better place to do it.
The East garden beds
We currently have one winter sown bed in the East yard. That leaves two more 9’x3′ beds, plus a new 4′ square bed, available.
The compost ring is in this area, and I fully expect lots of things to start growing out of there this year! One year, we had lots of mystery hybrid squash show up. Last year, it was almost all tomatoes, though some potatoes (which never got harvested) also showed up. With what we’ve been tossing in there after preserving the harvest, I wouldn’t be surprised if more tomatoes, squash, melons and even bell peppers started to grow in there.
Those are the areas we will have available to plant in this year, right from the start.
There are a few things that I will want to start indoors for spring transplanting. Others, I will probably buy transplants, instead. Here are some things I’m considering.
Tomatoes: We ended up growing a lot more tomatoes than intended, and way more than we use. For this year, I’m thinking we will just grow a cherry or grape tomato for the family to snack on. We don’t need to do paste or sauce tomatoes again this year. If we do grow a slicing tomato, it will be just a couple of plants. We do have tomato seeds we can start, but are severely limited in space for starts this year, so I might just buy transplants. We shall see.
Peppers: we’ve been experimenting with short season varieties to figure out what the family likes, which had us growing away more than needed. We’ve saved some seed but, again, we don’t have a lot of space to do starts. If we grow peppers again this year, I will probably buy two, maybe three, transplants and that’s it.
Corn: last year, I tried a super short season variety. This year, I have seeds for another short season variety to try. Just enough to see if we like them. This year, I will see what I can to do set up supports around the corn before they get big, as we have a real problem with the stalks being blown over by high winds. We also need to find a way to keep the raccoons from eating them!
As for the Montana Morado corn that was winter sown, there were very few seeds. I’d collected the kernels from what plants survived when we grew them a couple of years ago, and we were intending to test them out as a corn flour. Before we could do that, the cats knocked the container over during the night, spilling it all over the floor. I’d swept them up and threw them away, not thinking that they could still be used as seed. Over time, I would find a few kernels here and there that got missed and saved those. If any of these winter sown seeds survive, I am hoping to use them to collect more seed. We shall see.
Peas: we have the shelling peas winter sown, but I would like to grow some edible pod peas, too. The family likes those better.
Beans: we have bush beans that are winter sown. I would like to grow at least one variety of pole bean, and one variety of shelling bean. We have lots of bean seeds to choose from.
Melons: we do love our melons, but this year, I think we will plant only one variety of melons, and one variety of watermelons. These would need to be started indoors, in late April.
Winter squash: last year, we tried the Wild Bunch mix and had such a high germination rate, we didn’t have the space to grow any others! Two 18′ beds were filled with winter squash. Last year, we also bought two varieties of winter squash my daughters wanted to try, so I want to try those this year. They will need to be started indoors around the end of March or mid-April. I’ll have to check the seed packets again to be sure.
Potatoes: normally, I would have ordered my potatoes by now, for spring delivery, but just haven’t done it. We do want to grow potatoes – and a lot more of them. I’m just not yet sure where we could plant them right now. If worse comes to worse, we can buy our potatoes from stores in the spring, instead of ordering them online.
Salsify: we got seeds for these a few years ago, but never got around to actually growing them. This year, I’d like to finally do that! I’ll have to double check the packages to see about starting them indoors or not.
Herbs: I have quite a few varieties of herbs. I need to check which ones need to be started indoors. The long term plan is for things like herbs, greens and other things we use in the kitchen frequently, to be grown in the old kitchen garden, since it is closest to the house. The problem is, we keep forgetting to actually use them!
Flowers: my daughter particularly want to grow flowers but, in my seed cache, I have a packet of Crego Mixed Colour Aster seeds. These were given out in the memorial cards of an old friend that passed away suddenly, last year. I would like to find someplace to plant them in her memory, this year.
Wheat: a few years back, I got a rare, heritage variety of Marquis wheat seeds. If we have a free bed, I would like to finally plant them. I only have a couple of packages, so we won’t have enough to use them for anything. I will be growing them solely to save more seed for future planting. At some point, we hope to reclaim enough growing area to plant a small field of wheat and have enough to actually use to make flour, and still save seed. Mostly, though, I want to keep a heritage variety alive.
So that’s the general plan for now. Very little is going to be started indoors this spring.
If the winter sowing doesn’t pan out, we’re going to have a much smaller garden!
It will be a few months before we will know of they survived these cold snaps. Hopefully, we’ll be able to tell early enough to know what seeds or transplants we’d need to buy to replace them, before it’s too late in the season.
For now, we have reached our high of the day; -20C/-4F, with no wind chill.
Time to warm up the truck and go to the post office!
For the next while, I’ll be going through my old posts and videos about our 2024 garden, looking at how things worked out, and use that information to decide what we will do in our 2025 garden.
Our plans for herbs and strawberries have had some rough times!
The Original Plans
Strawberries and herbs are among those things we intend to have as our more perennial food garden items. Most herbs can’t survive as perennials where we lived, but some might, and others will reseed themselves, if left to their own devices. Over time, we plan to use the old kitchen garden as… well… a kitchen garden, since it’s right against the house, so it will eventually have a lot of herbs in it. As for strawberries, these are something we expected to interplant in various areas, as well has having dedicated beds of them.
How it started
Herbs
Last year, we started tried a few herbs, in pots and in the wattle weave bed. We had a single oregano seedling survive, some spearmint, a non-specific thyme variety and lemongrass in pots. In the wattle weave bed, we had chamomile and German Winter thyme.
This year, we started only oregano and German Winter thyme indoors.
None of the oregano germinated.
On removing the mulch in the spring, I had some hope that the thyme in the wattle weave bed had survived, but they did not. So that’s where the new thyme got transplanted.
The chamomile, however, had reseeded itself!
We also have mint in the chimney block retaining wall, which trace back to my late grandmother’s garden, plus chives in one corner of the retaining wall, that come back every year.
Strawberries
We had four strawberry plants in the asparagus bed. They should have spread their runners and expanded by now, but the deer kept eating them. They did, however, survive the winter, and started growing again as soon as the soil warmed up.
The real surprise were the tiny strawberries we grew from seed last and transplanted into the wattle weave bed. As they were planted near the outside edge of the bed, I had some doubt that they would survive the winter, even under the mulch. They not only survived, but they thrived!
This year, I did buy some bare root strawberries, and they got their own bed. You can see how that worked out in this video I made.
Thanks to those elm trees, what started out as a very productive squash hill (the first place we tried growing Crespo squash) was barely recoverable. I could only hope that those layers of cardboard would keep the capillary roots from spreading upwards.
The main thing, though, is that we had some new, everbearing strawberries planted that I hoped would do better here, than the ones by the asparagus did!
How it went
Not too bad, for the most part.
Herbs
The German Winter Thyme did well again, in the same spot we grew them last year. We had the Black Cherry tomatoes growing behind them, and filled in empty spots with Red Wethersfield onion around them. The cats rolled all over the onions, but didn’t roll on the bushier thyme.
The chamomile grew and bloomed, but there wasn’t as many as last year. The Red Wethersfield onion was also planted around them and got rolled on, but the chamomile survived the cats.
The mint did okay but actually had to fight off an invasive flower (possibly creeping bellflower, but we never let them grow big enough to confirm) that keeps trying to choke them out, even in the chimney blocks! Which is saying a lot, since mint us usually the invader. I was able to do limited weeding, but these are growing in from below and it’s pretty much impossible to get them out completely. Basically, I just had to weed them enough for the mint to be able to get bigger, then they could crowd out the weed.
The chives, on the other hand, were their usual enthusiastically growing selves.
Strawberries
I was surprised at how well the ones by the asparagus did. They’re a few years old and normally past their prime, but we did get a few ripe berries out of them.
Then the deer ate them.
Deer really seem to love strawberry leaves!
Even putting a makeshift fence around them was not enough to deter the deer.
*sigh*
The new Albion Everbearing strawberries did really well. They grew and spread runners, which I spread around and set the leaf clusters against the soil to root, so we could expand them to other areas in the future. I had thoughts to use them as a ground cover in our budding food forest, for example. They bloomed and developed berries, and we even had a few ripe ones to taste.
Then the deer got them.
I didn’t have a fence around the bed, but I did have poles with flashy pinwheels to startle them away, but it wasn’t enough. I put a net around the bed and they started to recover, only for a deer to actually tear through the netting and get at about half of them. I had a short length of chicken wire I could put around the side with the hole, but by that time, there just wasn’t much season left for them to recover in. There was new growth, though, so I’m hoping they survived.
*sigh*
The runaway success story, though, is the tiny variety of strawberries we grew from seed. Being in the old kitchen garden, the deer don’t get to them, I guess. Too close to the house? I don’t know. They got big and bushy, strong and healthy, and were very prolific! I was really impressed with how they did.
Conclusion and plans for next year
Herbs
I had visions of having fresh culinary herbs to use with our cooking as needed throughout the summer, and gathering blossoms and leaves for herbal teas.
The problem is, we keep forgetting we have herbs in the garden.
With the chamomile, I didn’t want to harvest any blossoms as there weren’t that many this year, and I wanted them to go to seed, instead.
I did remember to use the thyme a couple of times, but that was it. I didn’t even harvest any to dehydrate.
In past years, we gathered fresh mint leaves to make fresh mint tea, but just never got around to it this year. In past years, we used chive blossoms to make infused oils and vinegars, but that didn’t happen this year, and I ended up deadheading them so they wouldn’t spread seeds all over the grass outside the chimney blocks.
Basically, we had so many things happening this year, including lots of things breaking down, that we just didn’t have the spoons left to do this stuff this year. We also went from a very wet late spring to a very hot summer that made doing anything outdoors more difficult.
As for the strawberries, those wonderfully prolific little strawberries – I don’t know if they are a while strawberry, or an alpine variety – the seed kit didn’t name them – that did so well…
The berries themselves just aren’t that big a deal. We have native wild strawberries in the maple grove that manage to produce berries even while choked out by creeping bellflower, and those have an intense strawberry taste. They’re just really tiny. These ones are larger, but they don’t have that intense wild strawberry taste. If they’re not perfectly ripe, they’re actually rather bitter. For that brief time of perfect ripeness, they’re good, but not as good as, say, the Albion Everbearing strawberries.
So while they are a success, they are essentially taking up space that we can grow something more suitable for a kitchen garden.
Which means that, in the spring, I will try and find a good place to transplant them, where they can grow wild.
I might actually transplant the Albion Everbearing strawberries into the old kitchen garden, where they will have better protection from the deer! I really want to expand our strawberries, because we love them so much. The ones with the asparagus, I’m considering a lost cause at this point, but if we can keep the Albion everbearing ones going and spreading, that would be fantastic.
We currently have the larger rectangular bed in the old kitchen garden winter sown with the “greens” mix – spinach, chard, kohlrabi and tiny bok choi, and if the strawberries get transplanted, they will likely go into the long, narrow bed along the retaining wall. So that leaves most of the wattle weave bed (assuming the chamomile reseeds itself successfully again) and the tiny raised bed potentially for herbs.
I’ve picked up seeds for basil and fern leaf dill, though I have seeds for other dill and herbs as well. I don’t know that I will try growing thyme again this year, and oregano just doesn’t seem to want to germinate for us, so I think I will try different varieties this year. If the winter sown greens actually survive and grow, and we have things to harvest, I think we will be more likely to remember to harvest herbs, too.
We will definitely have to find ways to keep the cats off the garden beds, though. I’ll need to build a cover to fit over the larger rectangular bed. The wattle weave will probably get hoops and netting.
The problem with all these barriers to protect our garden from cats and wildlife is, it makes it hard to weed and water them, too!
Next year, however, the old kitchen garden will be a lot further along in being a kitchen garden, too, so that would be another step towards long term goals. It’s slow going, but we are managing to eek our way towards them!
For the next while, I’ll be going through my old posts and videos about our 2024 garden, looking at how things worked out, and use that information to decide what we will do in our 2025 garden.
I first looked over our plans for perennials, our food forest and the fall garlic, which had already been planted by then.
The garlic hasn’t really changed. We’ve got next year’s garlic already planted – this time using garlic we harvested, rather than buying more.
The crocuses… that was an experiment that I’ll talk about more, later.
For fruit and berry trees, we just didn’t have the budget to buy more, but we did at least get the two Trader mulberry saplings transplanted. Of the other things we hoped to be able to do, getting everbearing strawberries were the only thing we managed.
For root vegetables and tubers, we did have the potatoes, which turned out different than planned. While we intended to skip things like beets, radishes and turnips this year, I had intended to plant a lot of carrots. Instead, we planted very few, simply because we never got the space to plant more.
The plans for onions and shallots were hit and miss, but we did get them in, with some bonus onions that I will talk about later.
We intended to scale back on tomatoes, but ended up with way more than planned! There were some distinct differences among them that I will have to note for the future.
With corn, peas and beans, that changed a lot. I had intended to plant many different varieties of beans, including shelling beans, but that just didn’t happen. Among the ones that did get planted, much went wrong. It was similar with the peas. As for the corn, we did plant one short season variety that actually did pretty well, under the circumstances. There are things I would want to change with growing corn that way, though, and while I’d like to plant another short season variety next year, we’ve already jumped the gun in other areas – more on that when I write about our winter sowing!
With peppers, herbs and greens, that was all over the place. We ended up planting more peppers than intended, and they did quite well, even if they were behind in maturity, like just about everything else was this year. We ended up planting very few herbs and had issues with the greens.
It was our melons and winter squash that really changed how our garden went this year, as we ended up with so many! Way more than expected, even though we ended up not planting some varieties at all. The summer squash, however, was a very different story. We did try a couple of gourds. One of my regular experiments that our spring weather did not give a chance to succeed.
We did manage two types of eggplant, with moderate success. We wanted to try salsify, sunflowers and possibly cucumbers for fresh eating, not pickling, but that didn’t pan out.
So many other garden related things ended up not happening. More raised beds, rebuilding the garden tap, starting a new garden shed build… none of that happened.
I’d hoped to start reclaiming garden beds in the main garden area from the previous year and continuing on the trellis tunnel builds. Instead, a priority was put on shifting the existing beds to what will be their permanent positions. That gave us longer, narrower beds, as they await the logs we need to harvest to frame them. We still managed to fit quite a bit into them, and the narrowing of these low raised beds made them easier for me to reach into.
All in all, this turned out to be a very different year than expected, with spring weather playing a major part in slowing down growth. Every year, we learn a little bit more about what we need to do to better protect our garden from the elements, with even the low raised beds turning out to be a major element that saved our garden.
And so, to start, here is our spring garden tour video for 2024, taken on what turned out to be a rather cold day!
I hope you enjoy this series of garden posts. Do feel free to leave feedback in the comments, too!
While winding down for the night, I’ve been watching some videos, including this new one from MI Gardener; a resource I have recommended before.
This is an interesting video, since I fairly regularly see these concrete blocks being recommended to make raised beds. He lists the reasons he believes they should not be used.
I found it really interesting, and wanted to talk about some of them.
One of the first things he brought up was the weight. The ones he uses in the video are 8″x8″x16″ This is the size of most of the blocks we’ve been finding all over the place, though I think I’ve found some that are 10″x8″x16″
He also adds that they are cheap, and says they cost about $2 each.
So, of course, I had to look it up!
It turns out, one of these concrete blocks weighs about 30-35 pounds. The ones he’s using has flat ends. Some have shaped ends, and from what I found on the Canadian Home Depot page, they weight 42 pounds (19kg). The 10″ ones weigh 45 pounds (20.4kg).
I’d never really thought about how much they weighed. I found them heavy to carry around, but not that bad, really.
As for being cheap, interestingly, the 8″ ones are listed as just under $5 each – and are more expensive than the 10″ ones, which are just over $4 each. The last time I looked at their prices, at an actual store, not online, was a few years ago, and one 8″ block was priced at over $8 each, which shocked me. This was before inflation went nuts, too. Very odd.
This got me wondering, since we are using concrete chimney blocks as planters. So I had to look those up, too. I found plenty of links, but not one of them included a price. The closest I could find was an old image with a price on it, but the link was no longer active. Other than that, I found some on FB Marketplace were someone lists a whole bunch of things, not just chimney blocks, with a $4 each price listed. I don’t think that price was the same for all the wide variety of items listed, so I still don’t know how much they sell for here.
The chimney blocks we have are the standard square size of 16.75″x16.75″x7.62″
That measurement is so odd, I thought it would make more sense in metric, but not really. That works out to 42.5cmx42.5cmx19.35cm
What caught my attention was the weight.
Each one of those chimney blocks weighs 68 pounds (30.8kg)
So… I was lugging almost 70 pound blocks around the yard when I built the retaining wall and the chain link fence planters.
Okay, so weight was one of his reasons not to use them, but the other was height. They’re only 8″ high (slightly higher than our chimney blocks), making only 8″ of growing space.
I found that curious. His sample concrete block raised bed is on top of soil. Granted, it looks like the area was just leveled and has been driven over, so it might be compacted, but it’s still open soil, not a concrete pad or something. Any plants could send it’s roots lower. We have maybe 8″ of top soil – 10″ in a really good spot – before we hit gravel, clay and rocks. An 8″ high bed gives us about 16″ of growing space. We have been using modified hügelkultur, so the first couple of years would have sticks and branches at the bottom, so we don’t plant root vegetables in them right away.
I would find 8″ too low for accessibility reasons, and when I see people doing raised beds with concrete blocks, they are often two, three or even four blocks high. He talks about adding a second level, and demonstrates how easily the block spins around, since the base row is not perfectly level. He mentioned that people have suggested rebar to hold them in place.
I agree with him on the rebar. It seems almost counterproductive.
I’d just use concrete glue. AKA construction adhesive. It’s really cheap, one tube goes a long way, and can be applied using a caulking gun. Granted, that makes it permanent, but most raised beds don’t get moved around once they’re built, anyhow.
He makes a point about breakage being a problem, but not in the way he talks about. Where we are, we have temperature extremes. Pretty much all the concrete blocks we’ve been finding have been outdoors. Most of the chimney blocks we’ve used were stored outdoors since my parents bought this farm in 1964. Yeah, they have dings and chips, but they are still sound. The only blocks we’ve had actually crack and split where the two we put into the fire pit to hold old oven racks over the coals to cook on. It was exposure to high heat that lead to them cracking, not outdoor temperature fluctuations.
He mentioned that concrete is very porous, and that the edges of beds would need extra watering. True enough, though with our chimney blocks, there isn’t any centre space that would hold water longer than the edges. We still watered them as often as the other beds. We just have them more water. It’s been a few winters now for the retaining wall blocks long the old kitchen garden, and not one of them has cracked due to water absorption and the fresh thaw cycle. I’m not saying it can’t or won’t happen. Just that is hasn’t happened to us.
He then mentions that concrete absorbs a lot of heat. More so than even metal raised beds.
That may indeed be a problem in a lot of places.
Where we are, that’s a selling point! Even in the heat of our summers, it just makes them better for heat loving plants that might normally not grow well here.
There is another element to using concrete blocks he doesn’t mention, and that is the effect on soil pH. I’d read before that concrete can help lower the pH, which would be great for our alkaline soil.
As I was looking it up just now, though, I found one article that said concrete can lower the pH, but that was it. Other articles, however, said that concrete will increase the pH.
Which is the last thing we need!
Given the smallish growing space inside our chimney block planters, it wouldn’t take much to affect the pH in the soil there. Granted, I did amend the soil with sulphur this past year, as well as with peat, but with our pH already at 8 or higher, it’s going to take a long time to adjust the pH even slightly lower. Getting it to be slightly acidic, which most of the things we want to grow do better in, will take years. Looking up what vegetables grow well in alkaline soil, the list is pretty long, but most of them have an upper limit of 7.5. If we can get our soil at least down to that, it would be good, but it is harder to lower the pH than it is to increase it.
Well, the mint I transplanted into some of the retaining wall blocks seems to be handling the high pH quite well, as are the chives. Our biggest issue, however, is roots growing in from below. With the blocks at the chain link fence, it’s the nearby elms that took over the soil in the blocks. In the retaining wall, it’s some sort of invasive flower we haven’t been able to get rid of. It’s almost killing off the mint, in some blocks!
So when it comes down to it, whether using concrete blocks for raised beds is a good idea or not really depends on a lot of things. Stuff he saw as negatives, are positives for us, or non-issues.
Would I use concrete blocks for a raised bed?
Probably not.
We’ve got all those dead spruce trees that need to be cut down that can be used. For other raised beds, I’m liking the wattle weave idea and want to build more, though it’s surprisingly hard to gather enough suitable branches to use for the weaving. If we did happen to have enough concrete blocks to make raised beds, there are other things I’d much prefer to use them for.
When it comes to gardening, it is such an individual thing. We all just have to figure out what will work for our own gardens in our own regional area and microclimate, and use what materials we have access to.
Hearing what works or doesn’t work for others and why can still be a huge help. Which is why I like videos like this one. Not only did I find what he had to say very interesting, it got me checking things out and looking things up to learn more.
And now I know how much those chimney blocks weigh, too!
Today’s weather was pleasant enough that I was able to work on the low raised bed that will, eventually, be a trellis bed.
This is the bed that had the Summer of Melons mix along one side, onions that we found in other beds and transplanted for their seeds, and a few bush beans, on the other side.
Where the melons were did not need much done. The melon transplants were mulched with layers of cardboard, tree bark and grass clippings. Not much got through there, so all I did was pull the vines loose and spread them out on top of the mulch.
Where the onions were planted, however, was a different issue. There was quite a bit of grass growing among them – both crab grass and lawn grass! – along with the usual dandelions and other weeds.
I decided I would pull up the onions so I could weed more thoroughly, then transplant them back again.
In the first photo, I’d already started pulling up/digging out the first onions I’d found. Along the way, I found some of the seed stalks, and those got set on top of the melon vines. I even found a couple of seed heads that got missed.
Interestingly, there were even fresh, new onions starting to grow! Onions sure are hardy!
Once I pulled all the onions I could find (of course, I found others I’d missed, later on), I sorted them between red and yellow bulbs. The red would have been the Red Wethersfield onions that seemed to die off entirely last year, only for us to find them starting to grow again, when we prepared the bed this spring! The yellow are probably Oneida onions, and I think there may even have been a couple of shallots in there, too.
The seeds we collected are all mixed together, which means we’ll be getting both red and yellow onions growing in the winter sown beds.
The south end of the bed was the worst for grass and weeds. That was also where I transplanted a flower that might be a salsify. I was very curious to see what the root was like, as salsify is supposed to have a long tap root that tastes a bit like seafood. We got seeds specifically for that, which we never got to planting, but the seed company images only showed the roots, not the flowers.
Well, whatever this flower was – and it may well be a different variety of salsify – it didn’t have the long tap root at all. In fact, it had very shallow roots.
Curious.
I used a hand cultivator to weed most of the bed, stopping before I got to the end where I’d piled up the onion bulbs. Then I got out the garden fork and worked over things again, finding plenty more roots to pull out, while loosening the soil. All the grass clipping mulch was added to the melon vines on the other side.
When I got close to the other end, I paused to plant all the red bulbs, starting at the south end, in a double row. Some of the bulbs had divided into twos or threes, and those got split up for planting. These reached to about the middle of the bed.
Next, I moved the yellow bulbs aside, cleared the grass clipping mulch off the corner, and finished weeding and loosening the soil.
I uncovered a frog!
The poor thing was trying to hibernate in the soil. It barely moved when I so rudely uncovered it, and then just stayed there. I worked the soil at the end of the bed some more, dug a shallow hole for the frog where I knew I would not be planting the onions, then very gently set the frog in place and covered it with loosely with soil again.
Once the north end of the bed was ready, the yellow bulbs got planted in another double row, working my way to the middle – and there was just enough to reach the other onions! I marked the divide with a piece of broken bamboo stake.
This is way more seed onions than we will ever need, but that’s okay. These are being planted as protectors. Next spring, we might interplant around them; maybe with some greens or bush beans, or something like that. Whatever we plant, the onions should help protect them from the deer.
Once the onions were all transplanted, I raked up some leaves to mulch them for the winter, then raked the path around the bed clear. It’s not a priority for this fall, but eventually the path will be covered with cardboard, then a layer of wood chips.
Once that was done, I went into the overgrown area nearby to find the poplars I’d debarked to be used as vertical supports for the trellis and set them across the bed. They’re not the straightest, and need to have their branch nubs cut away, but … it’ll be rustic. Yeah. That’s it! Rustic. 😄
I’ve got eight of them that are debarked. They were to be lined up in pairs along two raised beds for the future trellis tunnel, but the other bed has yet to be constructed. If I use four on this bed, that means one at each end, two along the side, and they’ll all be six feet apart.
I think that might be too far apart.
If I add one more, that would have the posts at about four and a half feet apart. I think that will work out better. It’ll be easier to find straight (ish) horizontal cross pieces for that length, and the whole thing should be stronger This is expected to someday hold the weight of things like winter squash, so I don’t want to skimp on sturdiness.
Getting those up is not the priority right now, though. Before I work on that, I want to finish assembling the log frame around the low raised bed we put together this spring, and get that weeded. With the peas and beans on trellised on each side of that bed, I wasn’t able to weed around the winter squash, so it got very overgrown!
The next priority is clearing away the fallen spruce tree and the crab apple tree it fell on. That will require the chainsaw, though, which means waiting for a dry day. From the current forecast, that looks like the next two days, and then we get rain again for another two days. After that, I think it’ll just be too cold.
Which means the next two days is probably the last chance we’ll get to do some of the outside stuff. That will include moving the giant hose my brother lent us to use to divert the septic away from the house, if we had needed to, into the barn and covering the septic tank for the winter. I was still hoping to hose off the insulated tarp again, but it’s still damp. It would have been good if we could hang it on the clothes line, but it’s just too big and too heavy for that. Ah, well. It’ll still do the job. Technically, the tank doesn’t actually need to be covered, given how deep it’s buried, but I’d rather be safe than sorry! We’ve had another septic problems without potentially adding more.
At least now we don’t have to worry about the leak at the expeller anymore! My brother has also expressed great relief that it is finally done.
We’re managing to get quite a few things done this year, that will make next year easier!
Including planting one more garden bed with seed onions. 😊😊
Today was a really lovely fall day! We reached a high of 12C/54F this afternoon, making it perfect to get things done in the garden.
But first, the cuteness.
I managed to get a picture of Eye Baby this morning. Not a very good picture, but the best I could get! He just will not stay still long enough for a photo.
His one eye is still looking weird, but it is SO much better than it was! I honestly expected him to loose the eye.
I have no idea how much, if any, sight he has in that eye. There is no difference in how he manages, compared to the other kittens.
He needs a face wash, but now that we’re not grabbing him every evening to give him antibiotics anymore, he has no patience for that sort of thing!
My first goal of the day was to finish clearing the raised bed I’d taken the netting and supports off of, yesterday. I got the T posts out, then worked on weeding it.
It needed a LOT of weeding.
When I got to the seed onions, I pulled them out and set them aside until the bed was cleared.
Once the bed was cleared, the seed onions got transplanted again. There was four of them, including two bulbs together that I split.
After the frost did in the lone ground cherry that showed up in this bed, I found there had been a whole bunch of berries hiding under the foliage. They had been completely hidden until then! I’d gathered those up and set them aside, earlier. Today, I decided to go ahead and plant them in the area next to the onions. I just took the berries, still in their casing, and shoved them in like they were garlic bulbs. If there are any viable seeds and they survive the winter, they should do all right. This end of the bed gets more sun than the other one, so they’ll have a better chance at having a full growing season.
Or, none of them will make it, and I’ll plant something else there.
In the next photo of the slide show above, you can see the entire bed was mulched, with grass clippings. I have the end with the seed onions and ground cherries a thicker mulch, while the rest of the bed was just lightly covered, to protect the soil, more than anything else.
The next bed to work on was the eggplant and hot pepper bed. That bed was mulched with cardboard around the transplants, then grass clippings, so not a lot of weeds got through. With this bed, I just did a chop and drop with the dead remains of the eggplants and pepper plants.
Hmmm… the photos are not lined up the way I set them when I uploaded them to Instagram!
Anyhow…
In the second photo, you can see the yellow Mason’s line I used across the middle of the cover. It had been bowing out. The box frame is the same size, so I used that as my guide as I pulled in the side of the cover frame. I didn’t bother doing anything to the wire mesh, as I plan to replace it with something stronger at some point. This wire mesh is just too bendy.
With this done, my next job was to go through all the stakes and supports I’d gathered together. It took quite some time to organize them. We have metal stakes in two sizes that got bundled up, making use of the garden twist ties that had also been set aside for next year. The bamboo stakes were sorted by height and, for some of them, thickness before being bundled up. The smaller, broken pieces were tucked into a bucket in the garden shed, as they are still useful as supports.
Then there were the hoops and wire fences and other odds and sots that got organized and bundled. The remaining ties and clips were organized as well. We have one of those rolling seats – we found it when we were cleaning the new part basement of the house – that got lubricant added to various places before that got put into the shed for the winter, too.
That old garden shed may be dilapidated and falling apart, but it’s still managing to be useful! It would be good if we could finally gets started on building a replacement next spring.
With everything finally sorted and put away, it was time to work on the cat house. The first thing was to set up an extension cord through the window of the old kitchen. I’d put hooks up last year so we could run the cord above our heads, rather than across the floor, with another outside, keeping the cord snug into the corner of the door frame, so both the inner and outer doors could still open and close without damaging it.
There is a fair bit of excess cord that we usually kept tucked to one side on the ground. This time, I got a utility hook I’d picked up for something else, only to find something better, later on, and used that. So now the excess length is neatly wrapped up on the side of the kibble house, instead of laying on the ground.
As for the cat house itself, my younger daughter did the bulk of the cleaning. After getting the roof open, my job was mostly to make sure it didn’t drop (highly unlikely, but possible) while my daughter clambered inside. There was a large crocheted blanket on the floor, on top of some high density foam mats I found in the barn. It’s too heavy to wash in the washing machine, so we set that aside. The last time we were able to wash it, we used the kiddie pool, but that now has drainage holes in the bottom so it can be used as a garden bed.
I plan to get more. They are very handy.
For now, it’s set aside.
The two cat beds in there were pretty torn up. I don’t know if they’re worth washing, or should be just thrown away. They ended up in the shelf shelter for now.
We decided not to return the litter box. The cats just kicked the litter pellets all over and made a mess, but didn’t seem to have actually used it much.
After sweeping up the inside, we added the two new cat beds that were donated, one at each of the larger windows. The insides of the windows all got washed, too.
The heat bulb was plugged in and tested, as was the smoke detector. We also added a small cat blanket we had in the sun room.
The cats were very, very interested in what we were doing, this whole time. When it came time to close up the roof, we had to be very careful, in case a cat decided to jump up at the last moment!
Once that was down and the crates returned to their place under the counterweight, my daughter and I worked on the rain barrel. It was full of water, so we used the watering cans to empty it until it was empty enough to tip over and drain completely. It’s now set on its side in the old kitchen garden for the winter.
By the time that was done, we were starting to lose the light and time to call it a day. The outside cats got their evening feeding (even though it was really just late afternoon) and we were done with outside stuff for the day.
The next while is supposed to be cooler, though were are still expected to get a few days as warm as 7C/45F or 8C/46F. We might actually get some rain tomorrow afternoon/evening, but otherwise, it should be clear. While the main things that needed to get done are now done, there is always more to do. Right now, my goal for tomorrow is to move the insulated tarp aside and sow the wildflower seeds over the area beneath.
Anything else we manage to get done around the yard and garden at this point is just bonus.
I’m really glad to have been able to take advantage of what will probably be our last actual warm day of the year!
The Re-Farmer 